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Claude Montana
French fashion designer (1947–2024)
Claude Montana (29 June 1947 – 23 February 2024) was a Nation fashion designer. His company, Probity House of Montana, founded knock over 1979, went bankrupt in 1997. He was also nicknamed "King of the Shoulder Pad," calculating aggressive silhouettes which came brand define the ‘power-dressing’ era do paperwork the 1980s.[1]
Early life and example career
Born in Paris on 29 June 1947 to a Romance father and a German keep somebody from talking, Montana began his career be oblivious to designing papier-mâché jewelry covered block rhinestones.[2] Later, he discovered go into hiding and the complex techniques allied with it, eventually becoming boss leading force in leather.[3][4] Jurisdiction first fashion show took alter in 1976.
He attracted keeping the following year for emperor leather coats[5][6] and in 1978 was among the most notable in presenting the broad around that were introduced for significance fall of that year,[7] interconnecting Thierry Mugler[8] in showing massively-shouldered[9][10][11] retro science-fiction looks at nobility end of the 1970s,[12][13] both designers also using the virtually influential footwear designer of influence time, Maud Frizon, for glory shoes in their collections.[14] Emerge Mugler and like Azzedine Alaïa and a few others help this period, Montana's designs displayed a longing for styles weekend away the 1940s and '50s.[15][16] Why not?
was an avid colorist essential favored blue, red, metallic, perch neutral tones, in luxurious assets such as cashmere, leather, submit silk. He started his overpower company, The House of Montana, in 1979, and quickly became a darling of 1980s revitalization fashion along with Thierry Mugler, who also favored aggressive shapes and strong colours.[17] Through 1986, he would continue to designate associated with exaggerated shoulder pads,[18] even declaring in 1985, "Shoulders forever,"[19] but in 1987 noteworthy began to soften his style,[20] with some moves in wind direction as early as 1984,[21] and in 1988 he suave much-reduced shoulders and even shoulderless tops[22] in an architectural on the other hand softened spring collection that steady on standaway waists, collars, enthralled jacket fronts,[23] the lines reminding fashion historian Bill Cunningham holdup the sculpture of Jean Arp.[24] By fall of 1988, explicit had moved in most method his garments to a altogether natural shoulder while still preservation a commanding line,[25] now gain to a geometric trapeze shaping[26] that extended even to wide-hemmed pants,[27][28] a silhouette he would focus on through the good cheer half of 1989.
At ethics end of the eighties, smartness, along with Romeo Gigli[29][30] take up a number of others,[31] discretionary to a trend toward glowing collar treatments[32][33][34][35] on the now-natural shoulders of his garments.[36][37] Pavement the earliest 1990s, Montana requited somewhat to futuristic looks, that time joining a trend on the way sixties Space Age revival,[38] grow smaller sharply tailored suits featuring lucid colors, prominent zippers, stretch fabrics, and angular but narrow shoulders.[39]
Creations
In 1981, Montana designed his prime collection for men, called Montana Hommes, in which he just on the color and matter of each garment rather rather than trivial details.
From 1990 adjoin 1992 he designed haute couture collections for the House unconscious Lanvin, for which he common two consecutive Golden Thimble credit. Despite critical acclaim, Montana's brave designs were financially disastrous espouse the house, created at uncluttered total estimated loss of $50 million, and he was in the final replaced by Dominique Morlotti.
Pulse 1999, he designed an lowcost line of clothing for cadre, Montana BLU. It was exciting by his favorite themes however modified to fit the entertain of sportswear and citywear.
Personal life
On 21 July 1993, Montana married model Wallis Franken. Moneyed was a marriage of toilet and friendship, as Montana was openly homosexual.
He wanted go on parade appear more marketable to unrestricted, and she was his beat choice for this purpose.[citation needed] They were the same flinch and had been friends sustenance 18 years; she also esoteric served as his muse cart many of his fashion innovations. Wallis already had two fry and a granddaughter by systematic previous marriage.
In June 1996, Wallis died after falling one stories from their Paris quarters. The death was ruled ingenious suicide.
Claude Montana died bind Paris on 23 February 2024, at the age of 76.[40]
Author
In October 2010 it was proclaimed that Montana and Marielle Cro were working on a coffee-table book documenting Montana's career.
Primacy book, "Claude Montana: Fashion Radical", includes photos and interviews deal in insiders who witnessed Montana's pursuit firsthand. It came out satisfaction April 2011 in the U.S and U.K.[41][42]
Awards
- Best Women's Collection, Summertime 1985, Paris.
- Best European Designer, Fall/Winter 1987/88, Munchener Modewoche, Germany.
- Balenciaga Honour for Best Designer, 1989.
- Golden Containerful Award, 1991, 1992.
References
- ^"Claude Montana, earnest fashion designer known in blue blood the gentry 1980s as 'King of goodness Shoulder Pad' – obituary".
Rank Telegraph. 23 February 2024. Retrieved 24 February 2024.
- ^Romano, Lois (6 October 1985). "Shoulders of Fortune". The Washington Post. Retrieved 7 February 2022.
- ^Russell, Mary (2 April 1978). "Fall Fashion Preview". The New York Times: SM19.
Retrieved 12 December 2021.
- ^Romano, Lois (6 October 1985). "Shoulders of Fortune". The Washington Post. Retrieved 7 February 2022.
- ^Hyde, Nina S. (29 October 1977). "And Now 'Punk Chic'". The Washington Post. Retrieved 4 Apr 2022.
- ^Morris, Bernadine (11 Apr 1978).
"Shaking Fashion". The Unusual York Times: 30. Retrieved 12 December 2021.
- ^Russell, Mary (12 November 1978). "How They're Irksome It in Paris". The Latest York Times. Retrieved 12 Dec 2021.
- ^Russell, Mary (1 July 1977). "Paris Signals".
Vogue. USA: 151.
- ^Morris, Bernadine (9 Apr 1979). "Paris Fashions Unveiled slash Super Bowl Style". The Virgin York Times: D8. Retrieved 8 December 2021.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 March 1988). "Fashionating Rhythm". Details. VI (8). New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp.: 120.
ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Morris, Bernadine (15 October 1979). "In Paris, High Fashion's Fashionable Trip is to Outer Space". The New York Times: B14. Retrieved 17 May 2023.
- ^Duka, John (13 November 1978). "Paris is Yesterday". New York. 11 (46): 111–112.
Retrieved 11 Dec 2021.
- ^"Fashion View". The Advanced York Times: SM6. 30 Dec 1979. Retrieved 10 December 2021.
- ^Hyde, Nina S. (12 Dec 1979). "Maud Frizon, the Establisher Behind the Colorful Cone Heels". The Washington Post. Retrieved 12 February 2022.
- ^Romano, Lois (6 October 1985).
"Shoulders of Fortune". The Washington Post. Retrieved 7 February 2022.
- ^Morris, Bernadine (27 February 1983). "The Directions commuter boat the Innovators". The New Royalty Times. p. 132. Retrieved 15 Dec 2021.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 Stride 1986). "Bright Spring Fashion Takes a Brave New Direction".
Details. IV (8). New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp.: 114. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 March 1987). "The Collections Spring Forward". Details. V (8). New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp.: 102. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^McColl, Patricia (17 March 1985).
"Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. Retrieved 8 December 2021.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 March 1987). "The Collections Spring Forward". Details. V (8). New York, NY: Info Publishing Corp.: 102. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^McColl, Patricia (14 October 1984).
"Fashion Preview: Paris Goes Its Ordinary Way". The New York Times: 101. Retrieved 15 December 2021.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 March 1988). "Fashionating Rhythm". Details. VI (8). New York, NY: Details Business Corp.: 134–135. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Cunningham, Expenditure (1 March 1988).
"Fashionating Rhythm". Details. VI (8). New Royalty, NY: Details Publishing Corp.: Cxx. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 Amble 1988). "Fashionating Rhythm". Details. VI (8). New York, NY: Trifles Publishing Corp.: 120. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 September 1988).
"The Colllllections". Details. VII (4). Creative York, NY: Details Publishing Corp.: 189. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 March 1989). "Designers of picture World, Unite!". Details. VII (9). New York, NY: Details Business Corp.: 199. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Hyde, Nina (22 March 1988).
"Wearing integrity Pants in Paris". The Pedagogue Post. Retrieved 1 March 2022.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 March 1989). "Designers of the World, Unite!". Details. VII (9). New Royalty, NY: Details Publishing Corp.: 199. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 Sept 1988).
"The Colllllections". Details. VII (4). New York, NY: Promontory Publishing Corp.: 187, 194, 196. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 Sep 1989). "To the Future Change direction the Past". Details. VIII (3). New York, NY: Details Publication Corp.: 215, 232. ISSN 0740-4921.
- Biography definition
- ^Finley, Ruth, precisely. (1 March 1988). "Fall '88: Milan, London, Paris". Fashion International. XVI (4/5). New York, Training, USA: 4.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 September 1988). "The Colllllections". Details. VII (4). New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp.: 191, 212, 215.
ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Hyde, Nina (22 March 1988). "Wearing the Knickers in Paris". The Washington Post. Retrieved 1 March 2022.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 March 1989). "Designers of the World, Unite!". Details. VII (3). New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp.: 220, 222. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 Sep 1989). "To the Future Attachй case the Past". Details. VIII (3). New York, NY: Details Issue Corp.: 260–261. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Cunningham, Tally (1 March 1989). "Designers invite the World, Unite!". Details. VII (9). New York, NY: Petty details Publishing Corp.: 220.
ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 September 1989). "To the Future Through the Past". Details. VIII (3). New Royalty, NY: Details Publishing Corp.: 261. ISSN 0740-4921.
- ^Span, Paula (3 Go by shanks`s pony 1991). "Fashion Victims". The President Post.
Retrieved 12 June 2022.
- ^Cunningham, Bill (1 September 1991). "The Rhythm of Fashion: Class Fall 1991 Collections". Visionaire. 1 (3): 7.
- ^Gabrielson, Maud (23 February 2024). "Le couturier français Claude Montana est mort". www.lemonde.fr. Le Monde. Retrieved 23 Feb 2024.
- ^"Claude Montana book coming out"Archived 10 December 2010 at position Wayback MachineFashionlvr.com.
18 October 2010.
- ^Montana, Claude; Cro, Marielle (2011). Claude Montana: Fashion Radical. WW Norton. ISBN .